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Radiator is topped, system purged, Temp runs steady ~215~ When it goes hot, it climbs rapidly. Just did a oil change, no sign of water in the oil No sign of oil in the coolant. Do you want idle RPM with A/C on or A/C off? I don't think it's triggering the limp mode. If it did would there be...

Anything and everything can be fixed! I'm sure someone, somewhere has experienced similar issues! I'm not that special!! :)

2004 TJ, 4.0, Auto, A/C. 20500.0 miles. Ongoing issue ( 6 year+) when engine is hot, when restarting will intermittently throw a 303 code ( number 3 cylinder misfire ). Over the years I have replaced Spark Plugs, OPDA, Coil Pack, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Duty Cycle Purge...

Had the same issue with photos!

Have been chasing a intermittent issue with the TJ for years, maybe 10! Occasionally after a start when hot (after a fuel stop) It would start rough and throw a 303 code, #3 misfire. Over the years I've replaced Plugs, Wires, Coil Pack, OPDA, Cam Position Sensor, Crank Position Sensor, Fuel...

With the engine running, look at the HB, when the rubber starts to go bad the pulley will wobble. With the engine stopped, you can see the thin area of rubber between the hub and the pulley, if it looks rotted, think about replacement. The Idler Pulley Bearing started to "chirp". Letting me know...

Spent the morning under the hood! Replaced the Hormonic Balancer, Idler Pulley, Tension Pulley assembly and Belt. Except for having to partially removing the Radiator/Electric Fan unit in order to make room for the puller it was an easy, relaxing job! Seams the heat really beats up these...

As for the sometimes not starting, then positioning to neutral and it will start. There is a position sensor that can be adjusted, sounds like that may be the issue???

Run a can of Sea Foam through it with the fuel. I've had great success with the same issue!

Think of it as a blank canvas, you are the artist! GO FOR IT!!

I have secured lights into holes like that using a 2 part flexible epoxy. Something like JB weld may work as well. Even a high quality RTV would hold the light in place. A nice bead around the rear of the light assembly will hold it securely in the recess. Just clean the two mating surfaces...

use a soft face mallet or block of wood and hammer to drive the tapered pin up into the arm a bit. the friction should keep the tapered pin from rotating. You can also use a fork between them as stated but use caution not to tear the boot!

Added some ducks I acquired at Jeep Beach 22!

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How do I rotate it? Had to come up with something creative to do with the stash from Jeep Beach 22!!

Terry, When you had the pan off to replace the rear seal, did you do a fore and aft movement dimension check of the crank? On my 2004, when I did the main seal, at about 175000 miles I found the Thrust Bearing (#3) almost worn through on the rear side. Indicating the crank was moving forward...

Aloha! A tad late to the thread, but my 2 cents on the miles per tank or miles per gallon. I have a 04 TJ, 4.0,33 x 12.5 x 15. Automatic Transmission. For years I would go between 185/200 miles between fill-up's. That was a lot of Hawaiian driving, mostly slow, stop and go. Upon returning to...

As long as you have the oil pan removed, do a check of the fore and aft movement of the crank. When I did my rear seal replacement (the first time) I found the crank movement to be twice the specified dimension. The thrust bearing (#3) was worn mostly on the rear side. At that point I replaced...