axle shims

TWDJ

New member
So I'm installing my 2-1/2" RE lift kit which includes the 1" transfer case drop and 2-1/2* shims.

My problem with the shims was after putting them on top of the spring, there was not enough of the pin left to go into the axle. They were literally the same height as the pin itself which would not allow me to center the axle ON the pin. This did not seem like a good idea to me so I left them out.

In retrospect, did I make a mistake?
 

Likely a mistake, as they would have raised the pinion enough to keep it parallel with the transfer case output.

A taper shim should be bolted to the leaf pack with the spring centering pin. Clamp the spring pack with a c-clamp and remove the centering pin. Then bolt the shim in with a new centering pin.
 
Where would I go to get longer pins or would a small bolt do the trick?

I've got a little extra time as I am waiting for new front brake lines. Turns out I was unable to remove the flexible section (corroded joint) and I rounded the nut ... even using a tubing wrench. GRRR.

At least the lines will be new from the master cylinder clear to the caliper.
 

Any 4wd shop should have some. Or, a grade 8 bolt that's the right size will do the trick as well.
 
A bolt head won't fit into the axle perch.

You can buy a centering pin at most auto parts stores. Get the largest diameter you can, even if it means grinding down the head slightly so the axle seats correctly.
 

currupt4130 said:
I've been using allen head bolts.

Ya, anything like that will work. And yes, they will fit if you get the right ones....
 
Here's how I used all the great advice received on my original request ...

One at a time, I took the base plate off each spring, removed the U-bolts then dropped the spring far enough to get the floating shims out. Neither the newly supplied RE shims for the rear nor the factory shims on the front were the bolt-in type ... all were the floating.

The floating shims have a centering hole MUCH larger than the centering pin so there was no way to bolt it to the spring. I also could not find centering pins that set up higher than the 3/8" above the spring pack.

After "C" clamping the spring, the centering pin was removed, 3 washers were put under the head of the pin, the pin was slipped back into the spring then all was tightened up again. This effectively raised the centering pin ~1/4" (the width of the 3 washers) so it could again be inserted into the centering hole on the axle.

Everything went together well and I now have all the proper pinion angles as recommended by the factory and RE.
 
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