CJ power brakes
- Thread starter joeycj5
- Start date
If you have the CJ bracket just go pick up a booster/master cylinder and you may need an adjustable brake lever form tri county gear http://www.tricountygear.com . The new master will have the brake lines opposite but one is small and one is large so you just hook them in there perspective holes bleed and you are set. I paid $180 for a reman at the parts store. I think it was like $150 + core. I did not want to mess with a junkyard booster. It is a really easy swap. I would definatly check on the brake rod before you bolt everything up it is a real pain to get in without removing the booster.
I got one for my year (80). As long as you are in the later years (76-86) I think they would be compatable but I would check. A guy in my club also bolted a Chev booster to the firewall, but he said he had to fab a bunch of stuff to get it to work.
The rod goes between the bracket and the pedel. When I hooked it up my brake pedel was even with the gas pedel. I am sure you could have an adjustible rod fabbed, but I just paid the $40 to tricounty gear so I did not have to have one made.
The rod goes between the bracket and the pedel. When I hooked it up my brake pedel was even with the gas pedel. I am sure you could have an adjustible rod fabbed, but I just paid the $40 to tricounty gear so I did not have to have one made.
joeycj5
New member
Thanks again for the reply. I tried a 81-86 booster and M/C, but the brake linkage coming out of the booster was too short, it didnt reach the brake pedal. I Was hoping to find watch year CJ used the bracket,(actually a 4 inch spacer). The '86 and up Wranglers use the correct booster, but the M/C is different, brake lines are on the on passenger side of M/C, and different size fittings.
You need to have the CJ bracket. The booster hooks on the bracket then the brake rod goes from the bracket to the pedel. The brackets are usually pretty pricey. The fittings on the master of the 81-86 are switched front to back. you just have to streach the coils. The rear line on the new master goes on the front of the M/C and the front (bigger line) goes on the back. I will go take a picture and post it when I get a few minutes.
Hopefully these photos will help. The first shows the arm on the bracket that the booster rod and pedel rod hook to. One rod hooks right below the other, that is why the rod on the booster is not very long.
this photo is an overall look at the bracket, and booster.
This picture shows how I unraveled the smaller line (rear line) so that it would streach to the front hole.
I hope this helps. If you have more questions let me know.
Andrew
this photo is an overall look at the bracket, and booster.
This picture shows how I unraveled the smaller line (rear line) so that it would streach to the front hole.
I hope this helps. If you have more questions let me know.
Andrew
joeycj5
New member
WINCH PROBLEMS!
Hey Andrew,
Thanks for the pics and explanation. OK, it is appearant I do not have the corrct CJ bracket. I must have a Wrangler bracket, because the booster/MC that goes with this set up has a rod that is about 8" long, compared to the CJ braket that uses Two seperate rods. Thanks again, you definately answered all my questions. I think I will try to use the Wrangler booster. As this bracket and booster bolts right into the stock holes in my CJ firewall, and the brake rod is the correct length. Then I will redo the plumbing from the M/C to the Prop. valve.
Hey Andrew,
Thanks for the pics and explanation. OK, it is appearant I do not have the corrct CJ bracket. I must have a Wrangler bracket, because the booster/MC that goes with this set up has a rod that is about 8" long, compared to the CJ braket that uses Two seperate rods. Thanks again, you definately answered all my questions. I think I will try to use the Wrangler booster. As this bracket and booster bolts right into the stock holes in my CJ firewall, and the brake rod is the correct length. Then I will redo the plumbing from the M/C to the Prop. valve.
redrooster
New member
AVYoung,
Where on that site can you get a look at the adjustable brake rod you mentioned?
Where on that site can you get a look at the adjustable brake rod you mentioned?
redrooster
New member
Nevermind, I found it. It's for power brake setups only. I need one for manual brakes.
I have problems with my brakes losing pressure. I took the power brakes off for several reasons, one was that the cam in my engine created low vacuum pressure that was messing up the booster, second was that the booster had a leak and its nearly imposible to find one for a 79 model with 11" brakes. Third was that several friends of mine had all converted to disc brakes and used a 1974 manual master cylinder from a Corvette. The vette had 4 wheel manual discs way back then and the masters are cheap. Everyone that runs it doesn't have any problems except me.
I used Russel speed bleeders on the calipers to help bleed them out so I am 100% positive that I have all the air out. The problem has to be in the pedal and linkage. The return spring was missing when I bought the Jeep years ago but never needed it until the swap. So you have to pull the pedal out with your foot. If you pull it all the way out then you lose pressure the next time you push it in.
Is it possible to stroke the piston in the master cylinder too far back and lose pressure. If so then it has to be the length of the push rod. I measured it a dozen times before I cut it off, so I would hope that wasn't the problem. I have just about ruled everything else out.
I removed the proportioning valve and plumbed the lines so that there is no bias. The vette master cylinder bores are the same for each bowl, so I should be getting equal braking to each wheel.
Any thoughts? I have to rectify this before I put in my 4:1 transfer case or it will be impossible to hold it still.
I have problems with my brakes losing pressure. I took the power brakes off for several reasons, one was that the cam in my engine created low vacuum pressure that was messing up the booster, second was that the booster had a leak and its nearly imposible to find one for a 79 model with 11" brakes. Third was that several friends of mine had all converted to disc brakes and used a 1974 manual master cylinder from a Corvette. The vette had 4 wheel manual discs way back then and the masters are cheap. Everyone that runs it doesn't have any problems except me.
I used Russel speed bleeders on the calipers to help bleed them out so I am 100% positive that I have all the air out. The problem has to be in the pedal and linkage. The return spring was missing when I bought the Jeep years ago but never needed it until the swap. So you have to pull the pedal out with your foot. If you pull it all the way out then you lose pressure the next time you push it in.
Is it possible to stroke the piston in the master cylinder too far back and lose pressure. If so then it has to be the length of the push rod. I measured it a dozen times before I cut it off, so I would hope that wasn't the problem. I have just about ruled everything else out.
I removed the proportioning valve and plumbed the lines so that there is no bias. The vette master cylinder bores are the same for each bowl, so I should be getting equal braking to each wheel.
Any thoughts? I have to rectify this before I put in my 4:1 transfer case or it will be impossible to hold it still.
joeycj5
New member
Hey Red,
Before I started this power brake project. I needed better brakes to stop my Cj with 35's. It also had manual brakes, so I got a master cylinder from a 1980 Cherokee, it has a larger bore, I think it is 1-1/8", compared to the smaller CJ, around 1" MC. It fit right into the firewall, bolted right in, and brake rod was perfect length for my Cj. It worked out great, stopped Pretty well with 35's. If my Wrangler power brakes set-up does not work out for me, I will switch back to the Cherokee set up.
-joe
Before I started this power brake project. I needed better brakes to stop my Cj with 35's. It also had manual brakes, so I got a master cylinder from a 1980 Cherokee, it has a larger bore, I think it is 1-1/8", compared to the smaller CJ, around 1" MC. It fit right into the firewall, bolted right in, and brake rod was perfect length for my Cj. It worked out great, stopped Pretty well with 35's. If my Wrangler power brakes set-up does not work out for me, I will switch back to the Cherokee set up.
-joe
redrooster
New member
I did some research on Pirate and found that my problem has been discussed thoroughly on their boards. I have the proper setup and no return spring should be required if the pushrod is the proper length. I am going to attempt to make an adjustable pushrod so that I can get the pedal to work from the top of the pedal stroke.
When that problem is solved then all four wheels should lock up simultaneously. If not then I will install a Wilwood 2 psi residual valve to the end that doesn't lock up. That should cure it.
When that problem is solved then all four wheels should lock up simultaneously. If not then I will install a Wilwood 2 psi residual valve to the end that doesn't lock up. That should cure it.
redrooster
New member
Soft half door handles
I think I have a good handle on the problem now. I just have to find the time to get out there and do it.
Good luck with the Wrangler conversion. If you get all the parts form a donor vehicle or replacements, then you only issue will be adjusting the rod length. The adjustable rod should be the ticket.
I think I have a good handle on the problem now. I just have to find the time to get out there and do it.
Good luck with the Wrangler conversion. If you get all the parts form a donor vehicle or replacements, then you only issue will be adjusting the rod length. The adjustable rod should be the ticket.
joeycj5
New member
Yea
I think I now have all the parts I need for the Wrangler to CJ Power Brake converstation. The brake rods seem to match up Really close, I wont know for sure, until I get it all together. The hardest part so far is to replace the fittings to the new M/C. They are a different size than what the CJ uses. This shouldnt be to bad, i am just going to use new hard brakeline with the correct size fittings from the Proportion Valve to M/C.
Then I need to locate a source for intake vacuum, I have the edelbrock AMC v-8 Performer intake. I haven't really looked for a vacuum port yet.
I think I now have all the parts I need for the Wrangler to CJ Power Brake converstation. The brake rods seem to match up Really close, I wont know for sure, until I get it all together. The hardest part so far is to replace the fittings to the new M/C. They are a different size than what the CJ uses. This shouldnt be to bad, i am just going to use new hard brakeline with the correct size fittings from the Proportion Valve to M/C.
Then I need to locate a source for intake vacuum, I have the edelbrock AMC v-8 Performer intake. I haven't really looked for a vacuum port yet.
redrooster
New member
You better look for a vacuum port before you start the conversion. I can't remember if the vacuum port should come off of the carb base plate or from the intake. I know there is a different vacuum created by the two. Maybe Young will chime in again and answer that one for you.
