Opinions on this 80 CJ-5 for sale please?!

JeepnVT

New member
1040485

Hi everyone. I'm new to this group and considering the purchase of the following automobile.

1980 CJ5.
80k miles on body? 5-10k on rebuilt engine (I'm not sure).
New fuel tank, new exhaust. Little/no rust on frame.
New frame mounts, new paint.
Interior has been re-done also.
He's asking $5500 but said he'd take $5300.

What do you think - is this reasonable?

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1040488

It looks pretty good for $5300 to me... pictures don't always tell everything though. Take a look behind that diamond plating on the sides (as well under the carpet if you haven't already) to see if it's hiding anything.

I'm guessing that a fair amount of body work has been done on this CJ recently to deal with rust (the new frame mounts make me think this... along with the fact that they constantly rust). So take a good look around the tub for bubbles and imperfections to make sure that a decent job was done.

This CJ-5 looks like it came with the Laredo Package (mainly because of the seats, gauge package, grill and wheels).

Good Luck,
Jim
85 CJ
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1040489

It looks pretty good to me too. That doesn't seem like too much money, but you can get alot of Jeep (at least the CJ series) for $5000. I had a CJ5, and ended up liking my CJ7 much better, if only for the small amount of storage you get in the back (there's no storage in a cj5).

Just make sure to go over the bottom for rust. See if there are any smog laws where you live - if there are, make sure the CJ5 doesn't have any fancy new carbs or emmissions removed.

Terry

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1040490

Thanks for the replies!

a) What areas should I specifically check for rust under the body? I looked under there and while I saw a little brown, I also saw a lot of shiny new metal (exhaust, eg). Any trouble spots in particular?

b) I didn't see any bubbling and when I looked under the carpet I didn't see any rust. In fact this guy has is stored in his garage under a white bed sheet.

c) He said that he won't take any less than $5300.

d) What exactly was included in the Laredo package?

Thanks in advance!
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1040491

As far as trouble spots for rust are concerned... the main areas to worry about would be in front of the rear fenders, the floor pans and on the back near the frame mounts and tailgate hinges (if it has a tailgate).

The Laredo package was just one of the trim packages that you could buy a CJ with. Others included the Renegade and the Golden Eagle. Basically the package just includes specific wheels, a chrome grill, full gauge cluster and a leather wrapped steering wheel.

Again, on the surface $5300 seems like a good deal to me for this jeep. It looks like its in similar condition to my 85 Laredo, which was in FAR worse condition when I paid $3000 for it a year and a half ago. As long as this CJ-5 is mechanically sound, I would go for it.

Good Luck Again, and let us know if you have any other questions...

Jim

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1040493

You would make a convincing sales person! You just got me really psyched up to make an offer on what would be my 2nd CY (the first being an 82 -7). My last CJ turned out to be a pile of headaches and I would have avoided the Jeep if I had seen them coming so I'm really trying to arm myself with as much knowledge as possible this time around.

I'll give the underbody a better look and see how it looks under there before making a decision either way.

Thanks again!
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1040534

Compared to my 82' CJ-5 that thing looks like it just rolled off the factory line! Sorry I haven't replied sooner, been busy with a new Dodge diesel! (and working nights) Having owned my CJ-5 since 1982, there's not much I havn't done to it over the yrs. My only regret is that it is a CJ-5. I've got too much money into it now to change, but if I were to do it again, I'd look at teh CJ-7.

A little more room for gear, little longer, not as squirly on the hwy, can tow a little better, and they came with 5 speed trannies. (which, in the long term, you can do more with in regard to transmission swaps, longer rear drive lines, allow for more varity of transmission's)

The rear driveline in my jeep is 13.78" long! I could squeez a 5 speed transmission in if I move the rear axle back about 6 inches or so. As I said, I've got too much invested in her to change now. ARB in back power lok up front, 4:10's 33's 4" susp lift, 2" body, Mopar Multi-Port fuel injection, on-board welder & air, M.O.R.E Boomproof motor mounts. There's a few others I can't think of at the moment.

Things to look for? The steering box supports. there are 2 support brackest the hold the steering gear box to the frame. The outter bracket tends to crack around the bolts. This, then allows the entire gearbox to seperate at the most unopertune time.

Motor mounts. Neither one should look "Streched" Another common problem is the motor mounts seperating, and allowing motor to drop enough so that the mount rips open the oil filter. Also, not a good thing when it happens at the most unopertun time usually out wheeling!.

Front wheel bearing's. Not so much a problem, you'll have to replace them at some point. They shouldn't be loose though.

Look at the oil. Pull the dip stick out. better not be milky colored, not a good sign. (course I think you mentioned it was rebuilt, so the oil won't be an issue)

Driveline's are the U-joints tight? Are there any sighs that one has broken? (dents in body tub above the rear diff from the yoke hitting the body) I know this because it happened to me on my way home from someplace. Fortunatly, I was at a stop and as I accelerated across an intercection, the rear driveline gave out, at the diff, and at 5mph, it SMACKED the S#$& out of my undercarrige! Signs of impact on the yoke!

Well, these are a few things to look at. I'm sure that vehicle will be just fine. Heck, it doesn't have custome rock clearance. (dent's from large boulders!)

If ya already have it, congrats. If not, well, there's a little more ammo for ya.

Later...









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