Stubborn Torx bolts #%@&!!!

[chinard]

Okay, i've been doing some sheet metal patchwork on my floorboards, and i want to take off the rollbars, but all those torxbolts are suck... I mean REALLY STUCK!!
I've already destroyed 2 #40 torx bits trying to get them out, and i've even tried using those craftsman "screw out" bits (which just ended up completely destroying the heads)

This is where i need some tips on getting out those really badly stuck bolts which are far beyond what liquid wrench can liberate.

 

[hoobness]

wish I had an answer, Im in the same boat!

I did hear after I rounded them out, that with a torch (very carefully) heat up the area, and then attempt to get them out...

This summer without doors, I needed side mirrors, well in an attempt to install them I too ripped up 2 craftsman torx bits (thank god they replaced them for free), and then ended up rounding out the bolt altogether.

Never did get the mirrors on!

The only thing I can really do now is drill it out.

Hopefully for the both of us some one has a solutoin

 

[Inspector-Gadget]

Hello chinard,

A technique which I have read of, but not used, is to weld a standard hex-nut to the head of the torx bolt. Then use a standard wrench, socket, pipe wrench, whatever to remove the stuck fastener.

If that technique fails, I suppose a cutting torch would be the tool of last resort.

Regards,

Gadget

 

[hi_c]

Torx bolts are tricky. If you're stripping them, then you're probably not using the right size. Try using a T45 or T50. It should fit real snug. Might even have to "work" it into the head. As for drilling out the bolt, get a good drill and a set of extractors. Drill deep and centered. Good Luck.
C

 

[Snitty]

torx bolts are the hell of jeeps... but they CAN be defeated... i've broken many extractors inside them.. i've found that heat is my best friend when it comes to them.... and when you DO get it out... melt it down, spit on it, throw it away, and replace it with a stainless hex bolt

 

[chinard]

exactly what are these "extractors" that people are talking about?

 

[jsharifi]

Screw extractors are similar looking to a drill bit... the idea is that you drill a hole in the bolt and then put the extractor in (using the drill) to get the bolt free.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

We've always had good luck with welding a nut to the bolt, then backing it out with a wrench or impact. Always seems to be the rollbar bolts too :evil:

 

[K_K_PSI_GUY]

About a year ago, I came across a brocken roll bar bolt. I mean the head was just seared off. Well, it took me forever to drill through the bolt, tap in the extractor, and get that thing out. I'd say if you break the bolt, or you totally strip it, weld a nut like Bounty said and get it out that way. If you do not have a access to a welder, go buy yourself a bolt extractor and get workig. Make sure you buy a Large extractor, because the small one will just not work.-Al

 

[Snitty]

if you own a jeep... do yourself a favor and go buy a small welder

 

[BakedAlaskan]

I lived for 30 years in South East Alaska. Rust capitol of the world!!! 250 days a year of rain. Sitting on the ocean,3-6K foot mountains directly behind you, and winters last 6+ months.

Ford penatrating spray, BG Nforce, or PB blaster are best, let them soak and respray them a few times. Also a hand held Impact driver is an amazing tool. This is a fairly cheap tool and is worth 5X it's weight in gold.

You hold the driver with the appropriate torx/socket/screwdriver tip twist in the direction you want it to go and give her hell with a metal hammer.
(Deadblows are safer to the nuckles/bones but nothing shocks like metal to metal.)

If that doesn't work then the guys have the right answers. I have never had to weld anything to remove it. But I suuuuuure have had my share of drilling stuff out.

Good luck, Keith

 

[jackal]

try using a TIG welder . A high grade nut ,Grade 8 usually works. When Drilling a torx bolt sometimes they are case-hardened . You can't drill them very easy. If you break off a drill ,it makes it harder for the next guy.

We get out a lot of broken easy -outs and drills in my shop, some of the guys will break off a tap every now and then. On selecting rods , I prefer a Eutectic 680 , or a MG 600 die rod. Don't use 6011 or 7018, or regular mig wire ( HB18). It doesn't have the shear strength, although you might get lucky. If it doesn't work the next welder will have to remove it all.

If you use penetrating oil apply it from the bottom of the jeep. If you get it all over the head from the top, then the weld won't stick and it makes it a lot harder.

I get to remove about 150 bolts and taps a week when we re-build dies from the local factories. When you can remove a shattered 4-40 or 6-32 tap from a piece of A-2 heat treated steel that is in a blind hole 1/2 " deep, you get confidence, and poor eye-sight ( hahahaha).

hope it helps,
Jackal

 

[Tug-n-pull]

Overstate the ovious! Never put them suckers back use new real bolts of one sort or another! tug

Death to trox! death to trox! death to trox! :twisted:

 

[TwistedCU]

if you own a jeep... do yourself a favor and go buy a small welder

I'm finding that to be painfully true!

 

[TwistedCU]

I'll second the hand-held impact. Worked well on my windsheild hinges and tailgate also! Soak 'em the night before w/ PBBlaster

 

[jackal]

The Worst bolts are the rear differential cover ones. You don't want to weld that close to the gas tank, or at least I didn't. It is covered in oil, the torx heads are packed full of dirt, you can't get vice-grips on them. I always change them to hex head. Do you know of a worse bolt?




Later,
Jackal

 

[Utah_jeepster]

To answer some questions here.

When trying to break out a torx bolt.. never use a plain torx driver.. I always set my bits into a impact, the downward force keeps the torx driver bit firmly in-place.The night before...PB Blaster it to death!

To drill them out always use a cobolt drill. The slower speed keeps the heat down so the broken bolt doesnt expand inside the hole.
In-side our machine shop we dont use the long straight spiral fluted screw extractors but the shorter shoulder type of screw extractors. There is less chance of breaking them off and if you strip the shoulder you can move up a size. The shoulder also provides a stopping point for the broken bolt and gives you leverage to turn it out.
If you break a screw extractor off inside you will have to use a carbide drill to drill it out, these drill are very expensive and fragial as all get out.
We like to use an impact hammer and a punch bit to shatter them on the larger sizes.
Welding on a nut is one of the best ways un-less its broken off below the surface and then welding isnt an option.

Drilling out a broken bolt is always the easyest solution here.
A quick look on the net will help you find your tap drill size of any bolt. (That is the drill used to make the pilot hole so you can tap the threads.)
Always drill smaller first to make sure your center line of the broken bolt, drill slowly and let the trist drill cut, dont force the drill here.
Slowly move up in drill size to the tap drill size trying a screw extractor every so often. Once you hit the tap drill size a small piece of wire or a dental tool helps you pick the old bolt threads out of the hole threads. Always run a tap back down afterwards.
Its your choice on what bolt to replace here but a carful look over my jeep will show I still have 100% of the torx screws ( yes I am a glutten for punishment here) but I dont mind drilling out broken screws since I do it at work all the time.

As to finding a worst type of bolt/screw head? Well try a #1, 0-80 thread square head drive SHFS (socket head flat screw)

 

[gunner]

torx bolts suck, i mean they suck hard...

even thought I thought I purged my jeep of all torx bolts, I still find them squirled away

althought it takes some time, I have had a lot of success by using a combination of a torx driver or a large screwdriver and a vice grip

depending on where the bolt is, I put the vice grip tight around the head or if it protrudes on the other side, I clamp it to the narrowed down, threadless end of the bolt and twist it out - sometimes it takes a lot of scrapped paint and knuckles, but I have always got them out - it took my 3 hours onece to get the torx bolts off the my rear diff cover, but I did it

when you get it off, however, damn the bolt and the enginerre who invented it to hell and throw the bastard into your neighbor's yard

in any case, when i have some time, i remove every torx bolt and replace it with standard hex heads - if it's a rust area or collects water, I coat the bolt well with grease or silicon to help prevent it from rust seizing again

for what it's worth...