Jeep wont go into gear? help needed

captjanes

New member
my 99 jeep tj 2.5L manual transmisson wont go into gear sometimes.. she will start in gear and u can use the clutch and move her but when u change gears she wont go into the next gear u have to shift without the clutch. but she only like it sometimes i am starting to think a wire is loose on a sensor is that possible.. or could it be my throw out bearing getting bad. she not like it all the time she only like it sometimes.
 
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Did air get into the hydraulic/slave cylinder system some how? The slave or a fitting could be leaking and drawing air back in. Does the clutch pedal still feel firm? Maybe you could try to bleed it out just for the heck of it. Later
 
the clutch still feels good and i tried to bleed off air but nothing.. it sounds like my throw out bearing but i dont understand why it is only like it sometimes
 

Do you get any noise out of the throw-out bearing when you apply light pressure to it?
 
i get a problem like this if i have been in deep water the day before. the clutch disk gets stuck to the fly wheel. i start it in gear with foot on clutch then tap brakes a few times to break the disk free then the clutch is fine. this might not be the same problem you are having but just a thought
 
Sounds like one of your clutch cylinders is shot. It seems to me that the hydraulic system for your clutch isn't working. It's definitely not the clutch itself, when the clutch goes out the vehicle will not move even in gear.
 

Sounds like it could be bad synchronizers, they are what helps the transmission shift smoothly from gear to gear. Grab some synchromesh from the parts store and change the fluid, inspecting the fluid closely for glitter particles. These will be what's left of your soft brass synchronizers.
 
i recently changed my transmission fluid to quaker state syncromesh because some people on here told me it is better for my brass synchronizers. so if that is the trouble i will be mad haha. is it a big job to test or change my clutch cylinder?
 
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i recently changed my transmission fluid to quaker state syncromesh because some people on here told me it is better for my brass synchronizers. so if that is the trouble i will be mad haha. is it a big job to test or change my clutch cylinder?

there is your problem (quaker state):lol:
 
I thought Redline MT-90 was best for our brass synchros? If Synchromesh is what I need then that's what I'll get. I gotta drain and refill my transmission when I replace the clutch anyways.
Redline MT90 is the best, but it's about $6 a qt. more than the synchromesh. The synchromesh is acceptable and I recommended it because his synchros may be too far gone, wouldn't want to waste the expensive stuff on a transmission that's likely shot.
 
I've saved replacing the trans by switching to Redline, but the way it's described, I'd say pilot bearing (mine totally seized while waiting for a light to change and I nearly hit the car in front of me before I got the key shut off!) or the clutch master isn't disengaging (partially bypassing) Quick test is pump the clutch fast 2 or 3 times and see if it's better. If not, then pilot bearing is what I'd check next.
 
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