*** Looking to buy a CJ7- need input ***

Feido35

New member
1061647

Hi-

This is my first post ever so hopefully you're good to me. ;) I'm looking at a couple of different CJ7's and I've never owned one. I'll probably spend between $4-6,000 but really not sure what I need to look for beyond the basics...maybe you can take a few minutes to edumacate me.

I found a 85 & 86 I'm interested in. Anything I should be looking out for with either of those years? I can post some pics and info of the 2 I'm looking at...

Thanks in advance for commenting!

[addsig]
 

1061654

Look for the D44 rear axle that came in '86, it's stronger and more reliable than the AMC20 rear axle that came in CJ's. The D44 is more squared off at the differential, the AMC20 is a big round pumpkin.

Pull the carpet up and look for rusty floorboards that will be expensive/time consuming to repair.

Let's hear it from the CJ jeepers here :-D [addsig]
 
1061656

Depends on what you are into, and plan to do with the Jeep. 4 banger or In line 6 both good choices. Look at the frame for rust and the body for new body work rust ect..... Just look at everything on the Jeep to see the condition. Look for modifacations and the quality of the work that has been preformed on it. Look at the exaust and the drive it. Pull the short shifer and see that 4 hi and 4 lo go in and out and that the differentials lock up when they are shifted to do so. don't be afraid to also look at the YJs either they are good Jeeps too. Get the VIN numbers and call or go buy your local Jeep dealer to find out what all came on the modle you are looking at. Better yet find a local Jeep Head and ask him or her to help you look em over. I know I have given you no real earth shattering things to check but that is all I can do for you. Good Luck Welcome and get yourself a jeep! Tug[addsig]
 
1061678

i bought a 87 last year. Id say to preferably get the stock engine and do your own swap or just be exterely cautious about the engine that someone else put in it. When i bought mine some moron put like a 76 chevy 305 in it or something and then the stupid thing wouldnt pass emissions so we had to junk it. The only good part of that deal was dad took pity on me and bought me a 99 hehe.

Justin[addsig]
 

1061690

Look underneath at the body mounts and see if you see any sort of leaks while your downthere.

Check the muffler and exhaust manifolds for holes, and definately look for rust in the floor boards.

Look at the cowl rubber, the rubber that is between the windshield and the body, connected by the brackets. Make sure it is decent, but it's easy to replace. Mine leaks like a faucet right now.

See if there is much rust on the frame.

That's basic stuff without getting into the engine[addsig]
 
1061692

Also congrats and while the YJ is a very solid ride, like any other jeep, Personally Ithnk you make a wise choice to go with the CJ.

I figured Tug would throw the YJ card, but then again he'd probably have to pull me through a trail the way my CJ is right now! :lol: :lol: [addsig]
 
1061717

Definately look for an original drivetrain if your state is tough with emissions. Here in Virginia, you can't even swap the carb out. If its an original engine, look for a number stamped on top near the exhaust manifold that's usually the year prior to the jeep's model year (mine has a stamp that says '84' for example). Check for rust on the floor, by the tailgate hinges and on the lower part of the rear quarterpanel. If its lifted/modded use that as a bargaining chip... you shouldn't pay extra for something someone might have f'd up. [addsig]
 

1062596

You guys are rock stars! Thanks for all of the good information. Unfortunately, I checked on insurance for the CJ7 and it's outrageous compared to the 1987 an up.

So, it was a near miss. I was ready to hang up the hat for a little while and hold of on getting a jeep. I have a wife and daughter to answer to...that was the main reason. However; I found a couple of 1987's that happen to be pretty sexy rigs. I guess the roll-over potential is diminished significantly once you get out of the CJ's. Yes, it's a drag...but so is a boatload of insurance for a weekend recreational rig.

Can you guys share a little onfo on the 87 & 88 wrangler? I'm sure to be looking for the normal...rust under the floorboards, panels etc... However, from a mechanical standpoint, does anyone know about the 6 cyls they put in there? How easy is it to convert and drop a 350 in? Are there any other nuances I need to be looking at so I don't screw myself?

Here's info on two I'm looking at-

1st- 1987 JEEP WRANGLER, 6cyl, 5sp, hardtop, bikini top, 4" lift, 33" tires, blue w/brn top & int, more extras, $5500/obo

2nd- 1988 JEEP WRANGLER, 6cyl 5sp, blk, w/new grey, w/tint wind, 5 new 33" mud tires, reblt tcas/rearend, new carb, 4" procom, 3"body, flomast, new batt, $4,999

Any words for me guys? I wish I had others to confide in about this...but I'm sure you'll steer me in the right direction.

Thanks in advance for your help!!!

:-D [addsig]
 
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